11/01/2017 at 6:11 pm #35878
I had an XYZ Da Vinci Junior with its glass bed and was printing small PLA objects without any problems. In some cases I was using some office glue stick, which gave even better results. Anyway, the message is, I would need no bed heating for PLA. Printing larger objects with higher level of inner filling led to edge curling.
Now I have the robox and print small object using polar white PLA. The bed is heated by default, as it pre-programmed for this PLA. Even though the object is quite small (1 x 6 cm in XY plane) its corners are slightly warped up (making the part unusable). It was printed with 40% filling. The thermal surface was treated with isopropanol prior to printing.
The question is whether the bed heating helps or makes things worse? Could/should I decrease the printing temperature of the head? Because of the heated bed I always have to cool down the thermal surface before detaching the part. On the da Vinci, because its glass bet is always cool, I could remove the part almost immediately after printing without any problems.
Any advises?11/01/2017 at 6:17 pm #35879
I just took a look at the bottom of the part. it seems to be the printing nozzle was faaaar away from the printing surface. So it Wass just putting the filament on the bed, but not smearing it. This reduces adhesion greatly. And the reason is another problem with my printer, that I was not able to calibrate the nozzles offset. Now I’m printing with the left nozzle (second material) and the levelling of the first layer looks much better. Will see, how it comes out.11/01/2017 at 6:28 pm #35880
Yes, the second print is perfect! The the problem is the levelling of the two nozzles. This calibration failed. The printer always check the bed level using the left nozzle. Printing with right nozzle and not knowing the position of the right nozzle respectively to the left makes problems…11/01/2017 at 6:38 pm #35881
I have both RoboxDual and other Robox versionsArizona, USA
@mateo No, a heated bed is not needed for PLA, but you will get lifting/warping unless you use something like BuildTak or GecktoTek. I have a GeckoTek plate I use for all my cold bed PLA parts and it works great. You can get better quality with a cold bed in some instances because the heat from the bed can cause the layers in curves to curl.
I operate two Betas and four Production Robox.
I am the US/Canada Technical Support engineer for the Robox.
See my 3D Hub site at https://www.3dhubs.com/phoenix/hubs/ben11/01/2017 at 8:13 pm #35886
So the problem is definitely the missing calibration. I have printed with the left nozzle and everything went fine. Waiting for support response…11/01/2017 at 8:20 pm #35887
@bhudson can I force the system to not to heat the bed if different settings are programmed for the used filament?12/01/2017 at 10:04 am #35891
I have both RoboxDual and other Robox versionsCEL HQ Bristol UK
If you click in the top right corner on the Library (looks like a reel with 4 bars) you can go to Filaments. Choose the filament which you are using and press Save As at the bottom, enter a new name and then edit the settings as you wish before saving again.
To ensure you use these settings it is best to write that file to the reel using the button Write To Reel. The default settings will always be available in AutoMaker so you can reset the reel by choosing the correct filament then writing it again.
Please note that it is possible to damage hardware with the wrong settings. You will be responsible for this damage. Eg if you try to print PLA at high temperatures it could burn in the nozzles, or if you print ABS at PLA temperatures it may not be able to feed and damage other parts. For this reason you are required to accept the risk by enabling Advanced Mode which can be found in the top right, Preferences>Advanced>Advanced Mode, a pop up will warn you of this and require that you accept the risk.12/01/2017 at 12:22 pm #35903
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