This topic contains 34 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by Mike 2 months, 4 weeks ago.
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ah you posted while I was writing 🙂
well done
For official support please visit www.cel-robox.com/support/ and create a ticketOK last update for a while, as the Z carriage “loose nuts” were the issue, and it turns out after a chat with support, and following the re-install instructions, the lower nut is stripped, which is pretty bizarre, as there is no thread damage anywhere, but “c’est la vie”, at least the problem has been found, and once fixed everything should be OK again. 🙂
Mike
- This reply was modified 3 months ago by Mike.
@17bt Something to keep in mind with your Z calibration adjustments - always change both nozzles the same value in the same direction. The calibration data is stored on the print head itself, not in AutoMaker, so it cannot be updated live.
The Z values on the head calibration do not affect the layer height past the first layer, so part delamination other than the first layer coming off is not affected by the nozzle height settings.
When you are loading or removing filament from the Robox, make sure that you keep the filament taut on the reel to prevent filament tangles. Do this by turning the spool backwards while ejecting and by always tucking the end of the filament through the spokes of the reel when it is removed. Then when you load filament make sure that you don’t let the filament come loose on the reel while loading. I do this by holding the reel in my right hand to keep the filament in place and pushing the filament into the printer with my left hand. Once the filament is being pulled into the printer I install the reel into the printer.
I operate two Betas and four Production Robox.
I am the US/Canada Technical Support engineer for the Robox.
See my 3D Hub site at https://www.3dhubs.com/phoenix/hubs/ben@bhudson Thanks for your response Ben, and explanation of the Z height re calibration, and obviously my Z height values were garbage, because of the mechanical fault.
I am extremely careful when I load the filament, and I find it best to do the same, and add the reel afterwards. This was no problem with the SM headed machine, but after the upgrade, the DM extra reel carrier is a right pain, as it can eject Filament 1 if you catch the blue button in the spindle. In fact, the whole location of the SmartReel is not as good as it could be (in my opinion), as you can push the inner spindle out into the inner part of the machine, as well as struggle to locate the reel on its detent position. I’ve. had reels drop of using the Smart reel, but not with my DIY reel carrier.
It would be useful if the Automaker software, disabled the filament release button on the spindle whilst filament was loading on the DM machine, and for a few seconds after to allow for the reel to be connected, and maybe this could tie in with the Smart reel identification process as the Robot sees the reel making contact. It stops false negatives, otherwise a Cancel function in Automaker that stops the process within 5 secs or so when it is accidentally triggered 🙂
Also loading the filament isn’t always easy, especially with springy filaments on the reels, and I wonder if there is any mileage in having a door to make loading filament easier, but obviously that’d be for future models or revisions. It’s only a suggestion, but it’s like a sewing machine or photocopier from yesteryear with easy loading functions.
Mike
PS My delamination was caused by Z height variance due to lack of location, so it’s irrelevant now, as I never suffered from this before.
@17bt Having used dual material Robox units for about a year and a half now I can’t say that I have ever had the experience that you are reporting. From what you have said, I think that your DM setup is missing a part - there is a twist-lock sleeve that goes over the stem on the DM reel holder. This holds the reel holder in place and also protects the button. If you have lost this sleeve, check first in your reel adapter and then ask for a replacement.
I operate two Betas and four Production Robox.
I am the US/Canada Technical Support engineer for the Robox.
See my 3D Hub site at https://www.3dhubs.com/phoenix/hubs/benBen, my machine was upgraded by CEL to a DM, and I have no idea what a twist lock sleeve looks like. All I know it is not working as well as you are saying, in fact it is pretty annoying, so I will check the install pictures and see if I do have something missing.
Surprise, surprise I do indeed have that middle part missing. 🙂
Yet again… it’s always something simple…but the software pause would still help, as would a cancel or undo function in Automaker.
@17bt I think you will find that once the locking sleeve is in place you won’t need the features you are talking about. And you always have the cancel button on the back of the printer. Just turn it off. As long as the head is not hot (head fan turning), it won’t damage anything.
I operate two Betas and four Production Robox.
I am the US/Canada Technical Support engineer for the Robox.
See my 3D Hub site at https://www.3dhubs.com/phoenix/hubs/ben@bhudson Well, you are probably right about the locking sleeve, and I’ve asked support for one, as well as a couple of spare Bowden cable replacements.
Support very kindly sent me some nuts up, and I have just fitted them after cleaning the Z screw threads, plus levelled the gantry, as well as done a nozzle height calibration, which is now at 0.15 & -0.01, and although less than I have seen previously, a centred print now has an even first layer outline straight off the bat. I will probably increase this slightly, as I can just make out a slight squishing & bobbling of the filament in the base layer fill. The first layer is 0.35mm thick, is this about right, using the Normal print setting?
Hopefully that is the end of that, so thank you Ben & Pete for you input, and sorry I didn’t spot the “loose nuts” sooner, but they were hidden by the gantry rails, and the reflection in the door surface just casually glancing at the machine.
Just as a heads up, I think it was the Z test accelerated motion that might have caused the issue, because with hindsight it was after this when the print quality issues started. I have also reversed the top nut to locate on the inside of the spring, plus it will also add a little more tension, but it will still work as expected.
Mike
@17bt To avoid unbalanced tension in the anti-backlash units, the top of the nut should just be visible at the top of the housing. If you can see the sides of the nut it isn’t tight enough and if the top of the nut is below the top of the housing it is too tight. The flange on both nuts should point down.
I operate two Betas and four Production Robox.
I am the US/Canada Technical Support engineer for the Robox.
See my 3D Hub site at https://www.3dhubs.com/phoenix/hubs/benMine is like that, I pushed the spring as far down as it would go, and wound the bottom nut into the hexagonal body as far as it would go before releasing the spring tension. the dome part of the top nut is just visible, and I must say I have been watching it.
I do think the Z test stripped the lower nut threads or accelerated its wear, but that’s by the by, because the print quality is far better now. I have increased the Z height by 0.05, but the only thing I notice now when printing a small item (my test squares aka a car trim clip for a 1960’s Panhard), the periphery is perfect on nozzle 1 (Filament 1), as in stop and start is very precise, but when it is doing the diagonal fill, there is a slight ridging of filament as it reaches the end of the stroke and the start of the next one for about 3mm or 0.125″. Is this something to do with the nozzle control? I only ask, because this artefact affects a few layers until you do the hollow cross fills, and also is seen on the top layers too.
Mike
PS The sanded glossy side of the PEI plate is working well too, just in case anybody is curious.
I spoke too soon, as the corners of the PEI plate are not located by the clips, they tend to curl upwards, and as I am just printing a test batch of small clips 6 wide, 3 deep, and the rear right two are affected by the Z height variance cutting off the nozzle again. 🙂 C’est la vie, looks like I might be printing less and avoiding this area, or trying to bend the pEI sheet again.
LMAO
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